Our handy hints should make travel to Mumbai a happy experience for you.

TAXIS

Mumbai has a huge fleet of black and yellow taxis. They are the best travel option. Each one has a meter which is now out of date but the driver carries a card indicating the correct fare, converted from the meter reading. After midnight the fare is 25% extra. The recently introduced silver and blue COOL CABs are air-conditioned and mobile despatched. Dial 822-7006, 824-6216, 801-6622, 864-9955.

AUTORICKSHAWS

Three wheeler transport is available only in the suburbs (Bandra onwards). Auto-rickshaws also have outdated meters but the drivers carry a conversion chart. After midnight the fare is 25% extra.

TRAINS

Mumbai has an efficient but overcrowded suburban electric train system. It is virtually the only place in India where it is worth taking a train for intra-city travel. The local trains run on three separate lines, the Western line, the Harbour line and the Central line operating between 0430 and 0130. It is best to avoid rush hours when the trains are so crowded that it seems more people are hanging on the outside than are squashed inside. Unbelievably, the Central Line operates 1,064 trains carrying 2.8 million commuters per day and the Western Line 953 carrying 2.6 million. Mind boggling!

BUSES

Mumbai's red double-decker buses are one of the best ways to travel short distances in the city (except the rush hours). Fares generally cost only a couple of rupees and are paid to the conductor once you are on board. The problem with bus travel is figuring out where the buses go since the route maps sold at newstands are indecipherable. It is best to make as many friends as possible at the bus queue. Somebody will always be able to help you.

PRIVATE TAXIS

Check under Car Hire where we have been careful to list reliable companies.

TIPPING

This is only an indication. In restaurants tips are pooled and shared by all working staff. Be generous as most people run their lives on tips rather than their meagre salaries. When in doubt, 10% will do nicely. Hotel staff - at your discretion. Drivers - If you have hired a driver for the day, it is usual to provide his lunch and/or dinner. The standard rate is Rs. 35/- per meal and it is usual to give a tip of around Rs 50/- at the end of the day. If you are a group travelling by bus, it is usual for each passenger to tip the attendants Rs 10/- each. The driver’s tip should be more.

BARGAINING

Street stall holders expect bargaining. In shops, when buying in bulk, ask for a discount. They should oblige. Otherwise fixed prices are the convention.

RETURNS/EXCHANGES

Mumbai shops are very understanding. But remember to keep your purchase bills safe.

PHONES : Carry a lot of RE.1/- coins for pay phones or look for ISD/STD/PCO signs. Here you pay as per the computer printout. The G.P.O. and C.T.O., both in Fort, are efficient and open 7 days a week.

DRESS

Skimpily dressed women, no matter how normal by western standards, will be stared at. Wear informal loose clothes during the day and you won't feel uncomfortable. If you are invited to an Indian home or to eat out in the evening, smart casual clothes will do. Suits are the norm for business meetings.

ETIQUETTE

Mumbaites are informal, but in some homes you must take off your shoes before entering. Footwear should never be worn in temples or mosques.

INVITATIONS

It is fashionable to be late in Mumbai. However business dinners & weddings are punctual. Wine which is expensive is not always on offer. Most people drink spirits or beer until dinner is served, often not until midnight. Dinner also signals the end of the party, so it isn't impolite to eat and leave.

EATING OUT

Most bars and restaurants close at midnight. Eating and drinking after closing is best in the 24 hour coffee shops.

HEALTH

Drink only mineral water or aerated drinks from sealed bottles. Toilet paper is not always available, so carry a roll.

BEGGARS

Instead of giving money, give them edibles, like cookies, bananas or sweets.

CRIME

Mumbai is relatively safe and most organised crime does not involve daily life. Be sensible, do not flash wads of notes or leave handbags open. Leave valuables/passports in hotel safe.

ONE LAST WORD OF ADVICE: Smile. It'll make everyone feel better.

Have fun in Mumbai!